Downtown Nashville from Ernest Tubb Record Shop
One of my favorite city calls me back this weekend for the wedding of Brad D. Few cities can match Nashville’s functional history. There are no ghost towns or ruins here: The places that made this city famous are all alive and kicking. Whether you’re wearing a Nudie Suit or tight jeans, the city’s blend of old South and modern media welcome anyone – as long as you’re wearing boots.
Must see: The Ryman Auditorium. The city’s gem, regardless of who’s on the bill. Best known as the home of the Grand Ole Opry for 30 years, the Ryman features arguably the best acoustics in the world. It’s been immortalized in movies, TV shows and countless live albums, but it still books a full slate of classic and modern musicians playing country, rock, bluegrass and anything else you might fancy.
Eat: Jack’s BBQ. Wake up and get here before a music video crew takes over. It’s on Broadway, so plenty of tourists can find it, but the locals will point you here, too, and for good reason. Smoky meat chopped in front of you, plenty of sides and chess pie.
Drink: The Patterson House. A Southern take on meticulously crafted cocktails from the braintrust behind Chicago’s excellent Violet Hour cocktail bar. The drinks here are as haunting and rich as Hank’s wail. If you prefer a cold beer, try the Dos Perros from the locally made Yazoo Brewing Company.
Shop: Hatch Show Print. One of the most active members of the National Historic Register, Hatch Show Print still churns out new letterpress and woodblock prints for current tours. You can also browse and buy from their collection of new presses from classic cuts, some dating as far back as the Civil War. You’ll be hard pressed to find a more affordable or stylish piece of history.
My letterpress poster collection started here with two classic prints. One is the “Fabulous Johnny Cash Show” featuring The Tennessee Three, Mother Maybelle and the Carter Family and others. The other is an early-stardom Elvis Presley print from a Florida show.
Outdoors: There’s a beautiful park around Nashville’s Parthenon and hallowed academic grounds surrounding Vanderbilt. But if you’ve got a free day and need some fresh air head South down I-24 to the isolated Savage Gulf State Park. There’s an easy hike to Big Door, or strenuous trip down the Fiery Gizzard. You can catch waterfalls and overlooks of the Cumberland Plateau.
Side trips: Outside of the United States nothing says Tennessee quite like Jack Daniels. The world’s top selling whiskey is made entirely in the otherwise dry county Moore County, located a few hours South. You can take a free tour of the facilities in Lynchburg, capped off with a glass of lemonade on the porch.
Soundtrack: You can’t do much better than an iPod full of Johnny Cash. Born in Arkansas and discovered in Memphis, Cash made his home in Nashville with wife June Carter. The royal pair routinely welcomed musicians of all genres to his home for legendary jam sessions. Disc four of “The Legend” box set highlights some of these famous collaborations, but all four discs make a worthy backbeat to a weekend here.
Other recommendations include:
“Nashville Skyline,” Bob Dylan. Johnny Cash makes several appearances here, naturally, as do some of Nashville’s finest players. Although not Dylan’s most groundbreaking album, it’s still one of his best.
“Charlie Louvin,” Charlie Louvin. A member of the Grand Ole Opry since 1955, Louvin still performed daily at his museum/diner in Nashville up until his death this year. This self titled album, his first in 25 years, introduced him to a new generation with some help from friends old (George Jones, Bobby Bare, Sr.) and new (Jeff Tweedy, Kurt Wagner).
“Youth and Manhood,” Kings of Leon. Before they took over stadiums and top 40 radio, the Kings of Leon made their legend with bearded backwoods boogey.
“Jolene,” Jack White. No song sums up Nashville better than this cover, A heartbreaking classic from Dolly Parton covered by new resident, rocker and record label owner White.